Montepulciano, Bravo!

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Our Tuscan stay-cation led us to Montepulciano (Siena) last week, a charming hill town in southern Tuscany that was important to both the Etruscans and the Romans. Like many Tuscan towns, Montepulciano sits on an Etruscan foundation.

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The town lived a period of splendour in the 15th century, when Florentine nobility built gorgeous ‘palazzi‘ as their summer residences.

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The Town Hall in Piazza Grande pretty much resembles the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.

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Recently, Montepulciano has attracted even more attention for its connection to the Twilight series of books and movies. Most of the second movie, New Moon, was filmed here.

The Bravio delle Botti, a fun barrel-rolling event takes place in Montepulciano on the last Sunday of August and it’s among Italy’s most curious festivals. This must-see event is a historical celebration of a challenge between the eight contradas, who once used the horses to compete. The colours, the coats of arms and the same ceremonial routines have been maintained since the ancient times.

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On Sunday morning in Piazza Grande the draw to determine the barrels’ starting positions takes place, followed by the offering of the votive candles to St. John in the Cathedral. In the afternoon 300 participants march in the historical parade. The barrel race begins at 7pm. The barrels, weighing 80 kg, are pushed and rolled between two athletes (called ‘pushers’), along the uphill route for about 1800 metres, winding around the picturesque streets of the historical centre, finally arriving at the top of the Cathedral steps in Piazza Grande. The winning contrada will be given the ‘bravium‘ (hence the name of the festival), a panel with an icon image of St. John, the city’s patron. Winners 2015: POGGIOLO, colours white and blue, coat of arms three mounds.

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You’ll get passionate about the local wine. The region focuses greatly on terroir – the unique characteristics of the soil and climate, which give their wine a sense of place.

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The Ercolani Winery in Via di Gracciano nel Corso welcomes visitors in the 14th-15th century Underground City with connection between seven historical buildings. The cantina offers free tastings of wine and local products (cheese, salami, extra virgin oil) and free visits of the ageing cellar, the medieval museum and the Etruscan tombs.

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It is run by two brothers, Carlo and Marco, who have been agricultural entrepreneurs for 30 years and who maintain the tradition of the Nobile di Montepulciano using the four native grapes: Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile), Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo and Colorino, which are hand harvested at maturation in October.

The wine is aged in oak barrels in the cellar of the underground city.
The wine is aged in oak barrels in the cellar of the underground city.

The Ercolani brothers’ winery, at the elevation of about 450 metres, is on 150 hectares of land, of which 14 are vineyards, 4 olive groves and the rest a combination of arable land, pasture and woods.

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Slow down...
Slow down…

Tuscan hill towns are best enjoyed by adapting to the pace of the countryside.

The Church of Sant'Agnese of Montepulciano
The Church of Sant’Agnese of Montepulciano
Piazzetta del Buonumore/ The Good Mood Square
Piazzetta del Buonumore/ The Good Mood Square

A presto!

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Anghiari, Overlooking History

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Anghiari is a medieval town lying between two rivers, the Tiber and the Arno. It is listed in the Most Beautiful Towns of Italy, and is famous for the battle of 1440, where the Milanese troups were defeted by the Florentines, setting the present day borders of Tuscany. The Battle of Anghiari was captured by Leonardo da Vinci, who ‘decorated’ the hall of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, commemorating the Republic’s important events.

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The Rocca was the first fortified core from which Anghiari was built. The powerful 13th century walls made the town an invincible fortress. The setting is really breathtaking, with a sweeping view of the valley below.

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There are two museums right in the heart of the historic centre: the Battle Museum in the 16th-century Palazzo del Marzocco, which tells the history of Anghiari through manuscripts, glazed ceramics and ancient firearms, and the Palazzo Taglieschi State Museum with a collection of sculptures and frescoes from Anghiari and the neighbouring towns. Artisan workshops and antiques restorers enrich the enchanting streets of the town.

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Cortona & Acquasparta: Let’s Go Sagras!

Festivals in Italy are a true delight. It’s about meeting the locals, discovering surprisingly beautiful places and having fun at charming late night alfresco parties. These are wonderful experiences which you’ll hardly forget.

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Every Italian town boasts its share of festivals and sagre, (and I love a sagra!). Lots of them trace their roots back to medieval times and the people proudly uphold the heritage right down to the smallest details.

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“Cortona: Mother of Troy, Grandmother of Rome” (from the Third Book of Virgil’s Aeneid).
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A breathtaking view of the valley with Lake Trasimeno in the distance.

Originally an Umbrian town, Cortona was conquered and enlarged by the Etruscans, who called it Curtun. Parts of the Etruscan city wall can still be seen today.

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Luca Signorelli, one of the greatest Renaissance painters, was born in Cortona in c. 1445 and died there in 1523. His first work is dated 1474, when he frescoed the Bishop’s Tower of Città di Castello, which Picture Gallery hosts the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian painted by the artist for the Church of St. Dominic.

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La Sagra della Bistecca

The Sagra della Bistecca in Cortona, where food rules the day.
Sagra della Bistecca in Cortona, where food rules the day.

This festival celebrates the true Florentine steak that uses Chianina beef and is always served rare. The Sagra takes place at Ferragosto. The T-bone steaks are cooked on a 14-metre wire rack (the largest in Italy I’ve been told). Chianina cattle have been raised (and praised) in Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio for over 2000 years.

So I say, let's plate up!
So I say, let’s plate up!

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Festa Rinascimentale, Acquasparta

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Acquasparta is a beautiful Umbrian town that dominates the valley of The Naia River. During the Roman domination the area with its mineralized hot water baths was a retreat.

La Festa Rinascimentale in June recalls the 16th-century Acquasparta and the celebrations in the honour of Duke Federico Cesi.  The ‘contrade’ (Ghetto, Porta Vecchia and San Cristoforo) form the main part of the parade, where the flag-bearers perform a spectacular flag-waving exhibition in synchrony with the drum roll, this followed by various tournaments.

La Taverna di Porta Vecchia served us an amazing meal.
La Taverna di Porta Vecchia served us an amazing meal.

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After dinner, just cross the road and you are at the Renaissance style Palazzo Cesi. Today meetings and exhibitions are held in the palace, and during the Renaissance Festival an important event Vino A Palazzo takes place. Here you get a chance to taste good local wines proudly presented by the local winemakers.

 

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Castello di Brolio

Castello di Brolio is now home to the descendants of the Ricasoli family, who still live in the castle, so you can visit the gardens and the museum, but also admire the great view. All this followed by the wine tasting at the Ricasoli wine shop (included in the entry ticket).

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Did you know that Baron Bettino Ricasoli was the first to create the recipe for what became the great Chianti wine famous all over the world?

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Here you get the opportunity to unwind and enjoy a different rhythm. Definitely worth a trip!

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Gaiole in Chianti

Voted by Forbes in 2008 as ‘the Most Idyllic Place To Live in Europe’, Gaiole in Chianti, located about 15 km northeast of Siena, is a town worth visiting. In the Middle Ages  Gaiole, Castellina and Radda formed the Lega del Chianti, which became the heart of the Chianti region.

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The Black Rooster (Il Gallo Nero), the symbol of Chianti: first, of the Chianti League in 13th century, and then of the Chianti Classico Consortium.

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I strongly recommend a stop at The Gastronomia Le Cose Buone in Gaiole’s main street. The owner, Andrea Povia, is a master sommelier able to guide you through the real attractions of Gaiole: its Chianti Classico wine and gorgeous dishes made of high quality products. The food is absolutely divine here, simple, fresh and cooked with a passion that is almost tangible. I always feel like a happy soul each time I visit!

Genuine products and Andrea's cordiality are the perfect match.
Genuine products and Andrea’s cordiality are the perfect match.
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Cantine Aperte (Open Wineries 2015), Part Two

Another important estate I highly recommend visiting is Il Borro.

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The Ferragamo family have preserved this picturesque area of natural beauty.

Here we got a chance to taste gorgeous wines accompanied by local specialities. My pick? I really enjoyed the elegant tannins of Il Borro, with its ruby colour, dry taste and its good body and consistency.  The broad and silky texture of this wine made me want another sip (and a piece of prosciutto, too)!

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Another wine producer, Tenuta Vitereta, have offered their best wines that express their strong personality through the balance of various sensations and wide scents.

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And since you need something to go with your wine, some local produce, like excellent salame and prosciutto, directly from the tree! (Should definitely plant one of these in my garden…)

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And, finally, here we are!.. In front of the Ponte Buriano, a seven-arch bridge I bet you are all acquainted with. Want a hint? This bridge was used by Leonardo da Vinci in the lower-right quadrant of one of his paintings. Another hint? No, I guess you all recognize ‘the Bridge’ behind the Mona Lisa.

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Cantine Aperte (Open Wineries 2015), Part One

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Luckily, it’s Cantine Aperte 2015, which means the region’s main wine producers have opened their wine cellars for everyone to visit and taste their wines, free of charge.

Castello di Verrazzano is the first on my list. Situated in the heart of Chianti Classico wine production area, this estate offers guided tours all year round, by reservation.

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Don’t miss a chance to visit this estate.

Giovanni da Verrazzano, who discovered the bay of New York and the main part of the East Coast of North America, was born here in 1485.

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I’m so in love with this place! Its beautiful gardens, the centuries-old ageing cellars, and also the wild boars reared naturally in the surrounding woods. Enjoy the view!.. and taste the wine, of course!

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It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of Chianti Classico. And every time I taste it, I realize how much I love its deep colour, good structure and elegant taste.

And in the afternoon, Greve in Chianti awaits, with a must-stop at the Antica Macelleria Falorni, a Tuscan butcher shop, to taste their salame, capocollo, finocchiona, prosciutto, rigatino and more.

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It’s right in Piazza Matteotti, where you’ll find the Town Hall, the statue of Giovanni da Verrazzano, the Info Point and lots of artisan shops and restaurants beneath the arcades. It’s a beautiful square where every Saturday a big market of foodstuff takes place.

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Just above Greve, is a beautiful village, enclosed within its original walls, Montefioralle, the birthplace of another Italian explorer, navigator and financier Amerigo Vespucci. The doorway of the Vespucci family house is identified by the wasp (= vespa) and a V.

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The Beginning

Tuscany means happiness to me… This region with its historic grandeur and charming comtemporary way of living has always been bound up with my heart. So I feel like starting from here.

And I’m starting from Chianti.

Along the Chiantigiana Road, at a short distance from Tuscan par excellence as Florence and Siena, is the territory that greets you with its flavours, aromas and colours. Also known as Chiantishire , this land is full of castles, archaeological sites, as well as beautiful towns, thermal baths and places that have made of food and wine a real excellence.

It’s the end of May, and what better time to visit the picturesque landscapes, isolated farmhouses perched on hills, driveways lined with cypress trees… and… when you say Chianti, you’ll definitely wanna taste the gorgeous wine produced on this territory, since the Etruscan times, by people who have always preferred quality to quantity. Today Chianti means the guarantee of a noble wine.

 

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